CONSIDERATIONS FOR REPLACEMENT STUDS
... choosing the right replacement studs ...
A large proportion of modern football boots - especially those designed for junior players - are designed with one-piece moulded soleplates for an out-sole, i.e. the entire bottom surface of the lower half of the football boots are formed form a single piece of plastic which integrates the studs and arch ribs. If you have this style of boots this guide isn't going to be much use to you. However, if you chosen to use boots with replaceable studs, then read on.
The reasons for one-piece moulded sole plates is based on ease of manufacture and an expectation of obselescence, i.e. makers expect these style of boots to wear out and when they do they expect you to buy a new pair because junior feet grow faster and ther likelihood of a pari of boots lasting them until the reach young adulthood is extremely low. Conversely, boots with replaceable studs is that when they wear out or fall out - which happens often - they can be replaced with new ones without the need to buy a whole new pair of boots. Additionally there are now plenty of options for changing your replaceable studs for new designs which may suit your style of play as it develops.
The basic things to look out for are outlined below:
The two most common materials used for replacement studs are plastic and dense rubber. Normally this type of stud will be the first set that you will typically get with your new boots if they have replaceable studs. The things to think about are size, make and screw type. Most often, manufacturers will have proprietary stud designs and screw fitments. Basically so they can then sell replacements to you once your original studs wear out. Be careful of this, studs from one maker - like Adidas - will not fit boots from another maker - like Nike. The stud keys are also different with some having 3 lugs and others having 5 - it is best to check with the store when purchasing your boots. Also check if the studs are non-marking. Some studs can be worn indoors and are non-marking to wooden floors etc whic makes getting ready in the mornings much simpler, by allowing player to put on their boots at home.
The traditional stud is made of metal - normally a composite steel or aluminium. Metal has been used for studs because it is more durable and less prone to bending under load. It also means the manufacturing of this style of stud can be done as a single piece of forging making it possible to produces thousands in a single batch. Metal studs also penetrate different density of playing surface better and this is why they are generally preferred by sports like Rugdy and Hockey. The downsides to metal studs is that they should not be used indoors on any surface and they can cause injury if used inappropriately. For junioer players, it is recommended that you avoid purchasing boots that have a full set of metal studs if possible or replace them with plastic or rubber studs if the boots fit well. Finally if you do end up preferring metal studs as you mature, avoid studs with sharp angles.
A recent development in stud technology has been the introduction of hybrid studs made form a combination of metal, plastic and elastomer rubber. These studs provide the stability and ground penetration of metal studs with the light weight and flexibility of plastic combined with the absorbancy of high density rubber. As they are more complicated to manufacture, they can be slightly more expensive. Most football boot maker will offer models with hybrid studs. These types of studs also typically come in different diameters to allow players to tune the traction of their boots to match their playing preferences or playing surfaces. For example placing thicker, squatter shaped studs in the mid-sole helps to even out weight distribution on the contact points or placing thinner taller studs on the heels will provide added stability when the feet are planted level with the playing surface.
There are many varying sizes and heights of stud sets available. Most manufacturer will also have proprietary specifications too as there are no universal standards. However, there are restrictions on the size of studs that can be used and certain playing grounds may also impose their own local rules so if in doubt check before using your studs at a new facility. Between Rugby, Football, Hockey and American Football thre is a big variation in stud design in terms of size, height and shape. For football purposes low or mid height studs are usually better for the conditions in the UK because the they provide the best compromise between traction, stability and usability for the types of movement typified by predominantly ground based skills required to play it well. Players should avoid installing tall studs on their boots to avoid de-stabilising their running on / off the ball.
Fitting studs will require a stud key. While you can use pliers etc it is not general advisable damaging the body of the stud may cause it to break off the attachment screw leaving the broken piece in the sole-plate. A correct stud key will make the process easier and safer. Be aware that if you are replacing an manufacturer stud with another makers studs you may need a stud key for the old (original) studs and one for the new studs.
When you are ready to replace your studs ensure that the sole of your boots is throuroughly washed and dried. If possible use an old tooth brush to clean around the base of each stud to remove dried in debris and mud. Washing with warm water will also help loosen the dried in mud. Be careful to avoid using water which is too hot - if the water is hot to the point where you cannot bear to touch it, it will most like cause damage to the glues which bond the soleplate to the upper portion of the boots or could potentially warp the synthentic materials.
Once you have cleaned the soleplate, proceed to remove the old studs remembering to note if there are any specific locations for specific studs. Some stud sets come with varying heights allowing the player to adjust for more grip on the front, mid or heel of the boots by placing the taller studs accordingly. Finally when placing the new studs and locking them down do not apply too much force - ideally they will be sufficiently locked with minimal force as most studs will have micro-ratchet teeth to connect them to their base plates and you should hear the ratchets locking as you twist. If you are concerned about studs coming loose - which they will do - simply apply some thread lock to each screw before your insert them. This will provide additional adhesion between the threads to keep the studs in place.